Chiapas, Mexico: Zincantan, another Indian village -- Johnny Monsarrat Mexico Trip

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This is Zincantan, similar but upscale to Chamula. Here they do have some contact with outsiders. The government tries to build hospitals and schools here. In return the government wants the Indians to stop some of their unethical cultural traditions, like mistreatment of women or oligarchy instead of democracy. However, no one's found a solution to let the Indians keep their culture intact while changing the elements that civilized society finds inappropriate. This mess is further complicated by the fact that the Indians in this area sympathize with the rebels.

Senor Lopez tells me that all these Spanish-looking buildings are only 20 years old or less. Previously, there was nothing here but huts. Now it's maybe 80% huts. To my untutored eye, we saw worse poverty in Merida, but all the tour guides tell me that here, in Chiapas, is the worst poverty in Mexico.	My guide knows these women, who allow tourists to visit their home so they can sell embroidery. Thus obligated, I buy some embroidery and never use it.
Only the lucky or aggressive villagers make contact with tour guides. These women are some of the best-connected. They even got their pictures in National Geographic and are very excited about it. Makes sense, doesn't it? When National Geographic comes to town, naturally they visit the people the tour guides take them to. So when you're seeing the poor people in a magazine, you may actually be seeing the local superstars. These women are some of the superstars here in Zincantan.	The church at Zincantan. Despite the willingness to connect with modern society, they'll still stone you here if you take photos. I sneak some, feeling a little guilty. This is the church. Notice the green cross? The Mayans were using the cross as a religious symbol even before the Christians arrived. You can barely make out some traditional costumes.
The church, again. They have a weird mix of three cultures: the ancient Mayan religious traditions, the Catholic symbols, and now -- modern USA-style Christmas holiday stuff. We went inside and there was a tinny mechanical box playing 'Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer' and 'Frosty the Snowman' right next to the ancient Mayan idols the locals sort of sneak into the Catholic church. Very, very weird. My guide tells me that all traces of Indian culture will be gone here in thirty years.	On our way back, we passed the brand new airport. Might be an exciting locale for my book! I snap some photos and we don't get arrested.